Single chainring on route 2500 km of accepted compromises

Imagine: you're cycling on a route Winding roads, the wind in your hair (or under your helmet, let's be honest), and your bike seems to float like a silent ghost. No suspicious clicking, no chain dancing salsa between chainrings. Welcome to my single-chainring world, where I've traded the complexity of a double drivetrain for the zen-like simplicity of a single chainring. SRAM Force AXS en testand its version with a single crown at the front. After two months of winter training, flat tarmac under gusts of wind and rough hills, I give you my verdict: it's a revolution… or almost!

By Guillaume Judas – Photos: ©3bikes.fr

The single chainring makes the bike lighter and simplifies the handling of the transmission.

Let's start with the good news, because, let's face it, In cycling, people prefer to talk about gains rather than suffering. (We'll keep that for 12% gradients). First, the weight: 210g less! Yes, you read that right. By removing the second chainring and its front derailleur, my bike became as light as a pro cyclist after a detox. That's the equivalent of two fewer energy bars in your pocket. Or, for those with a bigger sweet tooth, a whole croissant. It won't change your life, but it will change your bike. And the cyclist's ego, that very particular muscle always quick to ignite with a gain in mass comparable to half a bar of chocolate.

This weight gain with the monowheel should nevertheless be put into perspective. It depends on the groupset (there's less to be gained with a high-end groupset than with an entry-level one because the front derailleur is lighter) and the choice of cassette to compensate. Because a cassette with many teeth is heavier.

The single chainring allows you to save a little weight on the bike.

 

But the real masterstroke is the yieldWith the chain line centered precisely in the middle of the cassette, unnecessary friction and energy loss are greatly reduced. It's as if your pedaling has been recalibrated by a Swiss engineer: smoother, more efficient. Noise has also almost disappeared. Much less of that clack-clack Annoying, it makes you sound like a novice mechanic. The SRAM Force AXS 1x groupset purrs like a well-fed cat, leaving only the sound of tires biting into the asphalt. And I noticed the same thing on a Rival AXS groupset. on a bicycle testI like it.

More streamlined, more user-friendly

Add to that a theoretical aerodynamic gain (impossible to measure without a wind tunnel, but in cycling, we believe in invisible miracles). Fewer protruding parts mean less wind resistance, and potentially a few watts saved for the last climb.

More aerodynamic? Yes, undoubtedly, and easier to maintain as well.

The maintenance also seems like child's play.No more front derailleur adjustments, less dirt accumulating in the nooks and crannies. The chain stays clean longer, as if it had a subscription to the local car wash. And aesthetically, it's pure minimalism, although that's primarily a matter of perspective. The bike resembles a piece of contemporary art: clean, elegant, without those unnecessary protrusions that make double drivetrains look like a poorly decorated Christmas tree.

12 sprockets actually used

More the very first avantagWhat I see in it is the optimal use of the cassetteOn a typical 80km ride on flat terrain with a reasonable elevation gain of 600 to 700m, I can use almost all the sprockets on a well-equipped 12-speed cassette.tagUnlike the double chainring, where some sprockets gather eternal dust (you know, those designed for "versatility" but never touched, like that overly fancy suit at the back of your wardrobe), here, everything is used.

It's been a long time since we've ridden through the full range of sprockets on the cassette.

Okay, I admit, I don't often use the 10-tooth cog with my 50-tooth chainring. A 50/10 gear ratio is the same as 55/11 for those who aren't familiar with the equivalents. It's a huge difference, and a 48-tooth chainring would probably be better suited to my (aging) level. But it's no use: I prefer the pedaling feel with a "big" chainring and more teeth in contact with the chain. So I don't regret my choice. It remains economical and logical, while giving the impression of being an efficient cyclist, not a waste of teeth..

A cassette to choose with care

Of course, nothing is perfect in this cycling world, where even the most carbon fiber high-tech can crack under pressure. Among the disadvantages, the first is the limited range of developments.With a 12-speed cassette optimized for flat terrain or gentle inclines, you quickly find yourself lacking gears when the slopes get steep. Not ideal for a spontaneous getaway.tagNo, unless you enjoy pushing your bike while waltzing with your thighs on fire.

On flat or gently rolling terrain, the single chainring is accessible.

So, I had to equip myself with three cassettes and even two chains of different lengths (because, yes, changing the cassette means adjusting the chain, otherwise the rear derailleur will be forced to do a wide split). I'll take the 10-28 for challenging outings, which I love cruiser on the 15, 16, 17 tooth sprockets without any gaps to disrupt my metronome-like cadence, worn down by 40 years of cycling habits. The 10-30 is a bit more reasonable for climbing the few hills around my house that are 15% over a few hundred meters, and which I never actually take for pleasure. But I lose the 16-tooth cog, the one I love. The 50/30 is the equivalent of a 40/24. On my other bike and my Shimano 2x12-speed drivetrain, I then have two extra cogs at the rear. It's tough, but it works. Finally, the 10-36 It allows me to have roughly the same gear range as with a 54-40 and 11-30 Shimano cassette. But be careful of the gaps between the sprockets. You go from a 13-tooth to a 15-tooth sprocket, then from a 15-tooth to a 17-tooth sprocket. So it's not ideal for those who want to ride fast on flat terrain.

But just so you know, Jonas Vingegaard won the last Vuelta, riding 16 out of 21 stages on a unicycle.with the 10-36 cassette. The gaps in the gear range don't seem to bother him, just as they don't bother newcomers too much. A generational thing, no doubt. The Dane did, however, go back to the double chainring for the 5 stages with the most elevation gain. Because a 12-speed cassette and two chainrings generally make 15 different gears, and they don't overlap. There's no getting around it: it's more versatile. Even with a single chainring and 13-speed drivetrain like SRAM's gravel drivetrain or Campagnolo's new version of its 13-speed groupset, it's still not quite there.

A deliberate minimalism.

Basically, The single chainring forces you to anticipateYou might wonder where you're going to put your wheels on your planned ride. It's therefore essential to choose your setup carefully before setting off, unless you want to bitterly regret it while riding. It's like going hiking in flip-flops: fun, but not always practical.

Not the perfect solution

In the end, I loved this experience. The SRAM Force AXS 1x drivetrain converted me to rolling minimalism.It's clean, streamlined, almost philosophical. I'm even wondering if I shouldn't permanently adopt this type of transmission, to simplify my life as a cyclist and focus on the essentials: pedaling and enjoying myself. But be careful, it's still a compromise.In a world where terrains change faster than fashions, you will always have to juggle the options. After all, cycling is like life: lighter is good, but sometimes a little more versatility prevents regrets at the top of the climb..

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Guillaume Judas

  - 54 years old - Professional journalist since 1992 - Coach / Performance support - Former Elite runner - Current sports practices: route & allroad (a little). - Strava: Guillaume Judas

6 comments on “Single chainring on route 2500 km of accepted compromises"

  1. I also use a single chainring on a gravel bike, configured in version route for my winter training.
    I had anticipated this use when choosing the drivetrain; at the time, only Campagnolo Ekar was available in 13 speeds. Furthermore, the gear ratios offered by Campagnolo in 13-speed (Ekar or Super Record) are quite well thought out.

    On flat terrain, I need about 13 gears, so a single chainring might be suitable (Ekar offers a 9-36 cassette).
    On hilly terrain, I like to use around fifteen different gears, but that's starting to become limiting, especially for specific training exercises (when you need to match cadence and power). Otherwise, you have to constantly change chainrings and/or cassettes…
    In mytagNo, in a single chainring it is impossible to cover the large gear ratios of descents and the short gear ratios of long climbs while being able to choose your cadence.

    We can add to the efficiency losses linked to smaller gear ratios (chainring and sprockets) and chain crossings at the ends of cassettes (compared to the all-purpose double chainring setup of 50-34 x 11-36, for example). This has been measured at up to 2% (or 7W when pushing 350W to ride at 45 km/h, the benchmark for all aerodynamic measurements).

    So as soon as I get back on my bike route For the competition (and training) season, the double chainring still has its full purpose.
    The one who derails on a double chainring routeHe just needs to go see a good bike mechanic for a proper adjustment.

    For Gravel riding, however, a single chainring is the way to go without hesitation!

    Perhaps one day we'll have 17 speeds to use a single chainring in everyday use route versatile, but it will probably be with a different technology.

  2. Hello,
    Personally, I started with a triple chainring on my first mountain bike, and the front derailleur ruined almost every ride. Since then, I've become allergic to front derailleurs, especially after discovering the 1x drivetrain on mountain bikes. I then adopted it on all my bikes. So I ride with a 1x drivetrain on my route Since early 2024: 12-speed SRAM, 10-36 cassette (the holes don't bother me, except perhaps in test CP20) and a tray of 46 for the dish and 40 for the montagNo, it works well (the Tour du Mont Blanc cycling event confirmed it). I would never go back, and it's not for the gains (in fact, it's a loss because you reach the extremes more quickly with a single chainring, resulting in a more crossed chain).

  3. Hello,
    Personally, I started with a triple chainring on my first mountain bike, and the front derailleur ruined almost every ride. Since then, I've become allergic to front derailleurs, especially after discovering the 1x drivetrain on mountain bikes. I then adopted it on all my bikes. So I ride with a 1x drivetrain on my route Since early 2024: 12-speed SRAM, 10-36 cassette (the holes don't bother me, except perhaps in test CP20) and a tray of 46 for the dish and 40 for the montagNo, it works well (the Tour du Mont Blanc cycling event confirmed it). I would never go back, and it's not for the gains (we're even talking about losses because you reach the extremes more quickly with a single chainring, so the chain is more crossed).

  4. Hi,
    A single chainring is good for flat or hilly terrain.
    but for mytagNo, there's no point, especially since gravel bikes with double chainrings allow...
    to cross mountain passes with a steep gradienttage with a comfortable pedaling cadence.
    I knew the 39-23 in the late 80s, then the 39-36 in the 90s, and the compact in the early 2000s revolutionized cycling in mytagNot for amateurs, and for the last 5 years, gravel bike developments have been aimed at tackling tough climbs with over 500m of elevation gain and steep gradients.tagThey allow for long outings with significant elevation gain without major fatigue the next day.
    Not everyone can be Jonas Vingaard!!!
    So, even with a single chainring that's 200g lighter (0.8W less effort), it's negligible!
    Marketing, the enemy of your wallet
    If you want to perform: postural study, lifestyle, and well-structured training, equipment is for the pros.
    Common sense is the most important thing.
    So the single chainring equals marginal gains
    A word to the wise.
    Pierre, triathlete and cyclist for 45 years.

  5. The benefit of switching from 11-28 to 11-30 isn't immediately obvious to me. My gravel bike has a 10-44 cassette, and my preference is to play with the front chainring size. With a 44-tooth chainring up front, I have gearing that allows me to do very fast rides (to be combined with semi-slick tires), while I can switch to a 38-tooth chainring if I'm going on terrain with significant elevation gain and very uneven surfaces.
    The chain line isn't great when you're on the higher sprockets; you just have to backpedal to see that it tends to drop down on smaller sprockets.

    1. Hello. The difference between the 28 and 30 isn't huge, but you have to look at the rest of the cassette's teeth. Indeed, on the 10-28 cassette, the gears end with 19-21-24-28, and on the 10-30 cassette, they end with 19-21-24-27-30.
      We therefore have a better chain line and a better etagment for sprockets from 19 onwards, which can be interesting for rides where you specifically work on pedaling cadence, like right now in winter for example!

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